Hero of Wine Award

I believe that if there is a Hero of Wine award it should go to California’s Cline Vineyards. Cline has taken several grape varieties that for centuries have been used as blenders to soften, color or add greater depth to the more popular varieties and has presented them as individual wines, giving them an opportunity to shine on their own. While to the casual observer that may not seem a big deal; it is. It took time, money, vineyard space, aging barrels, dedication, and everything else required to make a decent wine and above all, faith in their product. As a side note, any of these “different” varieties can add an extra note of individuality to your dinner table.

Cline 2016 North Coast Viognier ($10.99). It appears that this very rare French grape is finding a great deal of popularity with the California grape growers and winemakers. Viognier was never a wine that was available in great quantities because of the difficulty in growing the grapes, modern farming techniques and the friendly climate of California has lead to a resurgence in plantings with about two thousand acres currently under cultivation. Not trying to be a fortuneteller, but it appears as though the Viognier could be the new “darling” white wine of the 21st century. The Cline 2016 North Coast Viognier is a perfect introduction to this wine style and grape variety. The first thing that must be said of this wine is that it is bone dry. The aroma is so heavily floral that one expects it to be very sweet. The scents of roses, peach blossoms, and jasmine seem to explode from the glass when the wine is poured. The flavor of this wine stresses apricots and peaches with just an infinitesimal hint of oak and vanilla. This is a very interesting wine variety and the Cline 2016 North Coast Viognier is a very fine introduction to it. If I may insert a personal observation, Viognier is among my favorite white wines.

Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre. ($14.99). The calling card for Mourvedre is chocolate. This is the wine that is often added to red wines to give them a milk chocolate background flavor and aroma. This wine not only presents the chocolate right up front it also shows a very distinctive plum aroma and flavor backed up by cranberry and ending in a resounding fruit and chocolate laced finish. This wine is definitely not the same, old same old but a step into both the history and the future of winemaking. Give this one a try; I am sure that you will be impressed.

Cline 2016 North Coast Roussanne 64%, Marsanne 36% ($24). This blend is another example of grape varieties that have lost the interest of the French but is gaining popularity in this country. A native of the lower Rhone Valley, these grapes were often used in the mish-mash of grape varieties that make up the wine known as Chateauneuf du Pape, but rarely, if ever together presented as a single variety. Very much like the Viognier, the color of this wine is a light golden, which is its least impressive feature; from there, it goes straight to superlatives. The aroma is big, open, and very obvious displaying pineapple, Bosc pear, and Fuji apple. Tropical fruits dominate the flavor and continue on to an incredibly long and, for a white wine, super fruity finish. Some American vintners are beginning to plant these very flavorful varieties and while the wines are a little difficult to find, the hunt will prove to be well worth it.

Cline 2015 Ancient Vines Carignane ($14.99). Old vines, definitely. This variety has been hanging around California for decades and was called Kerrigan by many of the old-timers. Carignane is used to “beef up” red wines in the poorer vintage years. While loaded with the flavor and aroma of dark fruits it also adds some tannin and acid to weaker wines. This wine, to say the least, is an experience.