Winston Churchill’s once described Russia as “a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma,” a statement that could also be used to describe Italian wines. For years they were a great source of low cost, fairly adequate wine with Chianti being the best known and most popular. Time passed and so did America’s appetite for Italian wine. It did not take long for the Italian winemakers to realize what had happened; the American taste had changed. Some consumers went toward the inexpensive white or blush Zinfandel while others were looking for higher quality wines. The Italian winemakers rose to the challenge and began to produce better and better wines. Today Italian wines can compete on an equal footing with any of the fine wines of the world.
Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano DOCG ($60). This is one of those “where have you been all my life,” wines as it has been made from the rather rare Sagrantino grape which is indigenous to the Montefalco region in the north central Italian province of Perugia. The wines from this grape variety are famed for their incredibly long life and deep, almost black color. Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano displays an intense aroma of blackberries and other summer dark fruits coupled with delicate spices which continue on to the flavor and end in a seemingly unending finish. The wine is eminently suited to accompany the robust cuts of meat as well as aged aromatic cheese. As a side note, we recommend that you allow this wine to breathe for about an hour before drinking to allow it to open up and reach its full potential.
Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Montefalco Rosso ($22.99). Here we have a blend of wines, with the Sangiovese making up the majority, which has been augmented with 15% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino to produce really interest wine. The Sangiovese gives the wine the very familiar Tuscan flavor and aroma while the Merlot and Sagrantino add their own particular magic. The dark ruby color announces the aromas ripe cherries and rose petals. The flavor is mostly the red berries and vanilla in typical to Sangiovese wines but augment by tones of black licorice and moist pipe tobacco contributed by the Merlot and the Sagrantino and ending in a finish that is long, complex and fruity. This is a wine that takes a step away from the more familiar varieties and opens a brand new spectrum of wine enjoyment.
Arnaldo Caprai 2012 Grecante Grechetto dei Colli Martani ($19). If you are thinking that this is another ho-hum white wine, as they would say in Brooklyn “fergetaboutit.” The Arnaldo Caprai 2012 Grecante Grechetto dei Colli Martani is been made from the Grecante grape, the indigenous white grape of Montefalco. This is a fascinating wine that, unlike many of its compatriots, is soft and has absolutely no roughness about it. The aroma is a mélange of apricot, pineapple, citrus and honeysuckle. The taste abounds with tangy tropical fruit and more apricot resting on a base of lemon/lime. The finish is a bit longer than the average white wine and is as fruit filled as it can be. This is an excellent replacement for Chardonnay and is also a fine choice as a pre-dinner aperitif or just as a sipping wine for a quiet evening.
Frescobaldi 2008 Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva ($22). The name Frescobaldi is an old and honored name in the Italian wine industry and Baron Frescobaldi was, in a great part, responsible for the renaissance in Italian wines. The Nipozzano Riserva 2008 is the quintessential Chianti displaying the aromas of sour cherry, aspberry, and plum, with hints of black pepper, vanilla, cocoa, and espresso. On the palate the wine reflects the aroma coupled with smooth tannins and a prefect acid balance. The finish is a compendium of summer dark fruits, vanilla and espresso and seems unending. If it looks like we were impressed with this wine we were and can recommend it without question.