Portugal has never been famous for its wines. Well, that is not entirely true. Portugal has never been famous for its dry wines. Port, the dark, sweet, super fruity desert wine is probably the most famous and best known Portuguese export. Unfortunately these magnificent wines have totally overshadowed the everyday dinner wines of the Portuguese. Like the Spanish, with whom they share the Iberian Peninsula; wine plays an important part in the Portuguese life style.
The Douro River region, in the northern part of the country is the mountainous birthplace of all of the great Port wines and it is also the place where the best dry wines are made. The grapes for these wines are all local to the Douro region and are almost unknown outside of that area, so the wines made there are not at all like “the usual fare.†These Douro dry wines use the same grapes, from the same vineyards that supply the top Port quintas (wineries). In the case of the dry wines, the grape must (juice) is allowed to ferment to its natural finish rather than being stopped half way through by the addition of brandy as is the case with Port.
The additional fermentation allows the wine to take a different course than that of Port. Fermented to dryness, these grapes produce a whole new range of flavors and aromas not often ascribed to Port and deserve to be considered as a separate style. No matter what you call them, these Portuguese wines are in a class by themselves and rightly deserve to be so.
Val do Balfim 2008 ($12). This wine comes from the famed Dow Port quinta and was originally reserved for the family and friends of the owners. The wine proved to be so popular with the visitors that the owners decided to make it for the public. The Val do Balfim 2008 displays a deep, dark garnet color which announces a rich damson plum aroma mixed with spice and tropical herbs. The flavor showcases dark summer fruits which continue on to the finish and is equally as fruity. This wine is an excellent introduction to the still wines of Portugal.
Prazo De Roriz 2008 ($17). Here is another still wine that originates in a famous Port quinta, Prazo De Roriz, among the oldest in the Douro region. Again, this wine represents a Port formulation that has been fermented to dryness. Like any great Port, this wine is dark ruby in color and exhibits the aroma of plums mingled with black cherries. The flavor continues the plum and cherry but wrapped in a soft velvet robe ending in a superb finish. The winemakers recommend that this wine be opened about an hour before it is to be served to allow it to open up and show its best side. As a side note, it is always recommended that any red wine should be opened an hour or so before it is to be serve to allow the wine to “breathe.â€
Pombal do Vesuvio 2008 ($28). Here is another legendary wine from a legendary quinta. Pombal do Vesuvio is one of the largest vineyards in the Douro region and its grapes they grow are considered to be among the finest for making Port. Apply these grapes to a still wine and you come up with something terrific. As is with all of the Douro wines, this wine is very dark ruby in color. The aroma is typical of Douro still wines, plum and dark cherry; but in this case very intense as is the flavor which mirrors the aroma with a bit of oak and vanilla in the background. The finish is extremely long and opulent. This is a wine that the makers could and should be proud of as it encompasses everything one seeks in a fine red wine. Not to be pushy, but we feel that this wine is one that will please any critical wine enthusiast and definitely should not be missed.