Van Duzer Estate wines; a personal favorite

Objectivity; now there is a term that has lost a good deal of meaning in recent years. As wine columnists we try to be as objective as we can and not let our personal preferences influence us … too much. But, we are human and after tasting so many wines over these many years, it is natural for us to be partial to some varieties and some vintners over others.

We have always been partial to pinot noir wines and tend to be almost brutal in our evaluation of them, so it was quite a joyous occasion when we had the opportunity to sample the latest vintages from Van Duzer Vineyards of the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Van Duzer’s wines have never disappointed us and have always exceeded our expectations.

Van Duzer 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rosé ($16). Van Duzer 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rosé is a dry wine that captures all of the flavor and aroma nuances of the pinot noir grape and presents them in the free and open style of a rosé wine. Never, since the French Tavel wine of the early 60’s, has there been such a wine. The aroma is filled with scents of wild flowers, strawberries and licorice. The flavor is a riot of strawberries and watermelon which follows through to the finish which is very long and clean. We cannot say enough about this wine nor heap enough superlatives. It is a pure delight and can accompany almost everything. If you miss this wine you will have missed one of the great joys of the wine world.

Van Duzer Estate 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($30). The Estate Pinot Noir is, in our opinion among the finest example of an American pinot noir that we have tasted in a very long time. This wine displays an aroma of cranberry, blueberry and raspberry, cherry, plum and currents with suggestions of chocolate and black tea in the background. The flavor incorporates all of the elements of the aroma where they merge with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla and oak then ends with a finish that is as fruity and full as is the flavor and as long. If you have never tried a pinot noir, this one will make you a sure convert.

Van Duzer 2010 Estate Pinot Gris ($16). Pinot gris, or as it is known in Italy, pinot grigio, is a white wine that is finding great popularity in the United States. This wine displays a very pale golden color and a rich aroma of citrus, honeysuckle, apple, pear and a hint of white nectarine. The flavor abounds with the sensation of pear and melon which carry over to the finish which is long, fruity and complex. A very noticeable feature of this wine is its effective, although restrained acid level. All too often a pinot gris will drown all of its attributes with a extenuated fruit acid level. This is not the case with the Van Duzer 2010 Estate Pinot Gris. This delightful wine can accompany most of our summer foods, is a stand out with seafood and shell fish as well as serving as a great aperitif.

Van Duzer Dijon Blocks 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45). This limited production pinot noir offers everything that has singled out the great pinot noir’s of the past no matter where they came from. The wine presents an inviting ruby color, a firm body, a captivating aroma, a positive and definable flavor and a long, enduring finish, all wrapped in a smooth, velvet-like robe. The aroma displays cranberry, raspberries and oak while the flavor is about as classical as it can get; black cherry, spice and a not too subtle hint of truffles. All of these carry over to the finish where they linger on the palate for a very long time. Not only is this a great pinot noir, it reconfirms our belief that exceptional pinot noir wines can be made in the United States.