The New Wines From Spain

Spanish wines; a riddle, a puzzle and a huge question mark. For over a century, the wine industry has known that Spain should be a top producer of wines, but unfortunately, it has never lived up to its potential. It is only in recent times that Spanish wines have emerged from the shadows and are gaining the recognition that they richly deserve
With Spain’s strong catholic tradition, wine has played an important role in their religious and social lives. In earlier times, Spanish wines were mostly locally consumed or exported to Spanish colonies. It was good wine, made from native grapes that pleased the Spanish palate and well accompanied Spanish foods.
1863 was the magic year when Spanish wines should have exploded onto the world’s stage. That year began the “great blight” in France; a time when the French vineyards were almost driven to extinction by a small bug that killed the vines. Many of the French wine makers and grape growers headed south, to Spain, where they taught the Spanish winemakers their techniques for making wine. Unfortunately, the wines they made there never lived up to the quality of their former home. Why? There are many reasons but probably the best guess is that the French could not handle the native grapes in the same manner they had the French grapes.
The solution to their problem came from California. The Californians expertise in farming at warmer temperatures while still producing good wine grapes was the key. This, added to all of the modern methods of wine making techniques, did the trick. Spanish wines are now the equal of any in the world and getting better with every vintage.

Bodegas Osborne Seven ($21.99/3L). If you think that Spanish wines are still residing in the past, as they would say in Brooklyn, “fergetit.” Right up there with the most modern of modern is Bodegas Osborne Seven, a very delightful, truly modern Spanish red wine packaged in the economical 3 liter (equal to 4 bottles) container.
This container is cardboard with a plastic bag inside containing the wine and protecting it from air degradation for over six weeks after it has been opened. The wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah and small amounts of other Spanish varieties. This is a dry, dark red wine showcasing the aromas of cranberry, raspberry, vanilla and dark summer fruits which then carry through to the flavor and continue on to the finish. This is a very nice wine in a very nice package at a very nice price.

Martin Codax 2009 Rias Baixaz Albarino ($15). The wine is made from a local white grape, the albarino, which has a reputation of being very hard to work with. Again, it is modern farming that has tamed and tempered this grape resulting in an exceptionally fine wine. The wine displays the elegant aromatic aromas of citrus, white summer fruits and the sensation of fresh cut flowers. The flavor is fruity with a noticeable but inviting fruit acid background. The finish is incredibly long and fruity, ending with a note of lemon peel. This wine is a pure delight.

Piedemonte 2005 Reserva ($14.90). Made from equal parts of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tempranillo, this wine with the Italian sounding name, is pure Spanish and you can tell that by the use of the tempranillo grape in the blend. This is a terrific, full flavored, well aged red wine of great depth, flavor and softness. The aroma and flavor is that of the black summer fruits with hints of tobacco, pepper, vanilla and oak which end in a summer, dark berry finish.

Tandem 2006 Placido de Eza ($14). A blend of tempranillo and merlot, this wine displays a brilliant ruby in color with violet highlights. The aromas are fresh and fruity, with scents of ripe raspberries, dark berry fruit, hints of cocoa and wild cherries with a finish of spice and mint. A really fine, full flavored and enjoyable wine.