There are mysteries and conundrums to be found even in the wine industry; this one concerns the durif grape. The grape was discovered by François Durif, a botanist at the University of Montpellier, in France, who found the new grape variety at the experimental vineyard of the University. Durif, being the modest man he was, promptly named the variety after himself. The grape looked like a winner because it grew well and was disease resistant. Unfortunately, it made poor wine and was promptly discarded. Today, it is almost nonexistent in France, proving that the French are not the wine mavens they claim to be.
Somehow, some way, the variety wound up in California and by whatever magic, the vine extracted from the new world soil and climate, it grew well here and also made some really fine wines.
Another mystery is the name. Although the grape has been genetically proven to be the durif, somehow the variety became known by its local name, petite sirah, and the name stuck. It is also unknown why the grape made such poor wines in France, but here, in the good old US of A, it has become a rising star.
Concannon Conservancy 2007 Petite Sirah ($15). This wine has great depth and character. It exhibits the rich aroma of fresh berry fruit, and the flavor shows blackberries, chocolate, mocha, and plums. Subtle notes of molasses, cedar, and ripe mulberries are accompanied by soft, creamy oak tones and a smooth, silky finish that will linger in the memory for a long time.
Bogle 2007 Petite Sirah ($12.99). In these days of very expensive petite sirah wines, the Bogle 2007 Petite Sirah is outstanding and equal to the best of them on the market today. The deep purple/red color heralds the aroma of ripe, red summer berries, chocolate, and spice. The flavor is an explosive swirl of boysenberry, blackberry, black pepper, and vanilla. Another surprise is the rather long and subtle finish making this is a wine that should not be missed.
Ravenswood 2007 Petite Sirah ($13.99). The pride and joy of Ravenswood Vineyards, this wine raises the once lowly grape to new heights of excellence. It is a full-bodied wine that is loaded with ripe blackberry-black cherry fruit, cedar and warm spice, plus an intriguing hint of thyme. Complex, rich, delicious and a near picture perfect example of what the variety can do and a sure hit.
Parducci Petite Sirah 2007 ($19.50). This is what Petite Sirah should taste like. It is a big wine, which offers a huge structure of deep, rich purple colors and concentrated flavors from aroma to finish. Berries, chocolate, and spice mark the aroma while the flavor prominently displays boysenberry, black pepper, and vanilla. This wine can be enjoyed right now or put away for as long as 10 years. It is particularly well matched with strongly flavored and spicy foods as well as anything barbecued.
Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah 2007 ($12.95). The Guenoc 2007 Lake County Petite Syrah is a beautiful example of the dynamics and expansiveness of this variety. Dark summer berries and chocolate dominate the aroma and flavor with obvious hints of vanilla and oak. The finish, one of the outstanding features of this wine, is long and laced with cracked black pepper. This is a petite syrah to remember and when you have experienced it; its memory will linger in the mind for a very long time.
Smoking Loon 2008 Petite Sirah ($11.59). In these days of trying to get the best buy for your buck, the Smoking Loon 2008 Petite Sirah is the equal to the best of them on the market today. The deep purple/red color heralds the aroma of ripe, red summer berries, chocolate, and spice. The flavor is an explosive swirl of boysenberry, blackberry, black pepper, and vanilla. Another surprise is the rather long and subtle finish making this a wine that should not be missed; it is a wine to remember.